Udon Thani as a major tourist center? Magazine Issue 6 - July/Sept 2008 Page 28
By Dennis Walker © Udonmap.com

For the better or for the worse?

All the signs are that the world is facing its worst economic crisis since the long ago 1930s and nature, increasingly, appears to be hitting back at us humans after years of being ravaged by our greed and selfish indifference. The price of oil has recently burst effortlessly through the US$130 per barrel mark and the American dollar has sunk to an unprecedented low. The resources of almost every major country worldwide are being stretched to the limit both by internal demands and to serve the humanitarian needs of the victims of nature, at its most savage; and as a result of the ruthless and inhuman despotism currently holding rule in places such as Myanmar and in parts of the Africa’s and the Americas. Domestically, inflation is racing towards a frightening 6%; petrol prices have increased a remarkable twelve times during the course of the last twelve months, compared to two in the previous twelve, and there is an unprecedented rice shortage which has all but dried up one of Thailand’s major exports as well as dramatically increasing the price domestically. Just to rub salt into the domestic consumers’ wounds, manufacturers of rice cookers, the highest selling item domestically, have just been allowed to substantially increase their prices across their whole range. What is the knock on effect in Udon? What changes are taking place in Udon currently? Are these changes likely to prove beneficial to the community as a whole, and for tourism and ex-pats in particular? What can Udon learn from other tourist destinations, most particularly Chiang Mai?

Part One; The Competition.

Well, what is happening here in Udon appears to be the exact opposite of what could be expected logically. Udon remains an agriculturally based area without any real signs it has benefited from Thailand’s effort to change from an agricultural into an industrial economy. On the contrary, already a poor area it has become even poorer, with its agricultural products sharply declined; its younger people deserting the land to find less physically demanding and better paying employment in the major towns and tourist areas, and an increasingly ageing population left alone to cope with the impossible task of maintaining the economic viability of their farms.
Yes, throughout Thailand there are some areas and schemes which have proved successful, for which the powers that be quickly, and mostly unjustifiably, have loudly claimed the credit. The most obvious have been, to date, the development of Oceanside resorts such as Samui, Phuket, Krabi, and most recently Ko Chang and Hua Hin.

The growth in popularity of Hua Hin as a holiday destination, both for local and international tourists, has been quite remarkable. With its vast expanse of wide clean beaches, and sea water in which it is still possible to swim without emerging smelling of human excrement; unpolluted air; safe and interesting nightlife environment; a plentiful supply of value for money accommodation and close proximity to Bangkok, Hua Hin is fast becoming a serious threat as a preferred destination to the more traditional destinations of Phuket, Krabi & Koh Samui. It is hard to argue against a growing perception that all three of these resort venues, have become overly expensive, commercialized and westernized in recent years. Also, in the case of Koh Samui, the question of the safety of tourists in certain areas of the island continues to be raised at regular intervals.

Pattaya still remains the most famous (or should that be infamous?) tourist destination, although I can inform my readers with absolute certainty its proximity to one of the worlds most polluted beaches and sea areas; its continuing water supply problems; the high rate of ‘accidents’ in various forms experienced by tourists, and the ongoing power play - in the main between Russian and German business (???) men - for dominance and control of Pattaya’s nightlife are not the town’s major attractions!

Similarly Bangkok’s densely congested traffic, antiquated & inefficient drainage system, unbelievable noise levels, garbage strewn streets and heavily polluted air, remarkably appear not to deter in the least the millions of tourist who annually flock to this most famous of Asian capitals.

Buried deep down within my innermost self, I still secretly harbour the hope that my cynicism and suspicions of many of my fellow humans will one day prove totally unfounded and thereby shame me. It is for this reason that, on almost a daily basis, I valiantly endeavour to convince myself that the millions of male tourists who continue to flock to these two resorts really do so to enjoy their beautiful temples, shopping centers, palaces and their rich cultural histories. Also so that they can look with wonder upon the clarity of the water of Bangkok’s many canals; and be impressed by the immaculately maintained barges and ferry boats plying their trade thereon. Also, joy of joys, that they may have the opportunity to laze on the golden beaches of Pattaya; swim in the sparkling clean sea and breathe deeply of the aromas so famous to the Pattaya beaches. It is with some shame that, despite all the above attractions being attested to by no less an authority than the Tourist Board of Thailand, my cynical and suspicious nature leaves me with the nagging suspicion the Tourist Board in not being wholly forthcoming.

So the beach resorts have the sea and the sand, and Pattaya & Bangkok both have an extremely vibrant and variable night life catering to all tastes but, it must be said, with the promise of sexual fulfillment in any and all of its forms the single most constant and ever attractive factor, to both visitors and citizens alike.

It is axiomatic Udon Thani cannot ever become a seaside resort nor can it offer the vast range of nightlife entertainment available in Bangkok, or indeed Pattaya. What path is there left that Udon Thani could follow, if any, which might stimulate the local economy, or at least assist towards maintaining its current level?

I suggest that we need look no further than Chiang Mai to find a possible answer. Over the course of the last approximate twenty years, this is a city that has achieved remarkable growth, both structurally and economically. There are several extremely well appointed resorts within easy reach of the city. Also it boasts a complete range of commercial accommodation from five star hotels to the most humble of guesthouses; a similar range of eating establishments many of them with live music to suit a variety of tastes; some very pleasant ex-pat bars, particularly riverside. In addition, several outlying villages have developed cottage industries attracting visiting tourists and providing economic stability for the villagers and, every week end, a central area of the city is closed to traffic and stalls are set up where every manner of goods for sale can be found; with food stalls in abundance and with a variety of buskers, dancers and sideshows providing free entertainment. Specifically aimed at the ex-pat and tourist market, several hotels have opened piano bars and in which western music is the order of the day, played at a volume which does not prevent conversation.

Also there are several housing developments built with ex-pat purchasers in mind, the price including such items as fully fitted kitchens, fully equipped bathroom, hot water, landscaped gardens and efficient, properly maintained clubhouses with swimming pools and security
Whether by accident or design, Chiang Mai has become by far the main destination, for a flood of retiree ex-pats from Europe, Scandinavia, Africa, New Zealand and Australia, as the place to settle permanently and enjoy their twilight years in comfort, safety, and financial security. A very large proportion of these “new settlers” are farang couples. Basically these are couples who several decades ago had anticipated that their superannuation and or level of pension entitlement, together with such life savings as they had managed to accumulate, coupled with the fact that they had long ago acquired an unencumbered interest in their house, would ensure they could spent their retirement years in comfort and free of any financial worries. With the passing of several decades, a rapidly changing world and out of control inflation worldwide, the present day reality of economic circumstances of these retirees has proved a major shock.

This reality is that, in the Western economies, even joint pensions are insufficient to cover the day to day needs of food, clothing, property rates and taxes and the costs of maintaining the house and of running even the most economical of cars. As a result, and almost without exception, the need to first draw on savings and then to refinance the house arise as inevitably as the dawn of each day. In no time at all these pensioners are reduced to the impossible task of trying to survive on their pensions, having lost their house and their life savings. They are reduced to living on, or even below, the poverty line, and in a state of distress and despair.

These same retirees, by selling up their existing house and immigrating to Thailand with both the sale proceeds and their live savings intact, are able to live comfortably on their joint pensions and without financial worries for the rest of their lives. Additionally they need only a fraction of the proceeds of their house sale to purchase a house of their dreams here; this enables them to deposit any cash balance to provide a further source of income. By their decision to move to Thailand these retirees have moved from a position of inevitable poverty and unending worry, to the style of life in retirement to which they had so looked forward over many years.

The thrust of these last four paragraphs is firstly to highlight, not the obvious benefits to these retirees, but to highlight the tremendous continuing economic benefits being derived by Chiang Mai. My second and much more important intention is to emphasize that this is a special tourist market, carrying considerable economic benefits to the community, which could just as easily be exploited by Udon. Where are the experienced estate developers with the foresight and courage to undertake a Western style housing estate and the expertise to market it, as has been done successfully in Chiang Mai?

There is a huge demand among farangs for such an estate and which would include such benefits as an efficiently runclubhouse, incorporating swimming pool, restaurant and clubrooms,( and in which the swimming pool is not completely taken over by out of control children); streets which are not overrun with packs of mangy dogs nightly knocking over garbage containers and strewing rubbish everywhere, as well as keeping residents awake all night by their incessant barking while their owners sleep blissfully totally undisturbed by the bedlam their pets are causing; where the estate committee functions efficiently to ensure all the facilities and grounds are maintained to a high standard and where (unreasonably you might feel?) where they can be certain they will never arrive home one day to discover one of their immediate neighbours has opened up a small supermarket, a home laundry, a kiddies nursery or a Karaoke Bar! Really crossing over the boundary of reasonableness of expectation would be for such an estate to find and employ security guards who perform their duties vigilantly and with integrity - and even remain awake all night! Yes, in case you are wondering, there are to be found in Chiang Mai, bars catering for the lonely loveless man, and a couple of first class gogo bars, possessing a little more style and humanity than is usual to be found in other more famous Thai areas. But they are very much restricted to two small areas and carefully supervised by the local authorities.

Chiang Mai has two major problems which, to some degree are inter-related, and neither of which appears likely to be solved within the foreseeable future. On the contrary, the likeliest scenario is that they will both become far worse. Chiang Mai now has a greater air pollution problem than does Bangkok, and on occasions in central Chiang Mai, the traffic congestion is at least comparable to that of Bangkok. Chiang Mai’s isolation and distance from Bangkok is looming as a negative factor, with the prohibitive rise in the cost of airfares between the two cities.

Nevertheless it is unquestionable that Chiang Mai’s economy, along with that of Hua Hin, is coping better than most in Thailand at the present time; in both cases without the benefits of being seaside, or reliance on a thriving sex related industry and, in the case of Chiang Mai, despite the handicaps of very heavy air pollution; rapidly increasing traffic congestion and being somewhat isolated from Bangkok, Thailand’s capital city, and main port of entry for overseas visitors.

Part Two: Udon Thani’s way forward.

There is no question in my mind that Udon has the potential to become every bit as successful as Chiang Mai as a major tourist centre. But it will need the community spirit and pride, the commitment, drive and confidence of the local business entrepreneurs and the total support of the local and national tourism authorities, coupled with marketing flair and imagination. These were the ingredients, in full measure, which went into the mix to ensure the success achieved by Chiang Mai. They must be present in the same or even greater measure, if Udon is to achieve the same success.

What existing attractions does Udon possess upon which to build success? The short answer is “Far more than those with which Chiang Mai originally started out”. Just consider the following impressive list of features. Udon is centrally located in Thailand, providing easy access by air, road and rail to many major towns and tourist attractions; it already possesses a number of good quality hotels and an ever increasing number of family style guesthouses, not to mention the impressive five star Siam Hotel expected to be fully completed and opened before the end of the year. Already blessed with three major hospitals, three major shopping centres and several large furniture, hardware & tile centers, a major development in the city centre on the land opposite the Charoensri Grand, is scheduled to be commenced within the next couple of months or so. It is rumoured the land has been purchased by one of Thailand’s major developers and the development is to be on a grand scale, comparable to any existing in Bangkok and other major towns in Thailand. That such a major project is to be undertaken here further re-enforces the view of a growing number of people, including me, that Udon has the potential to become a real force in the Tourism industry.


Environmentally, Udon has a number of advantages over Chiang Mai, arguably the most important of which is that Udon boasts one of the lowest air pollution levels in Thailand. Other advantages include first class roads connecting, and providing easy access to, Nong Khai, Khon Kaen, Loei, Kalasin, Mukdahan, and the historical Ban Chiang Heritage World, all possessing special unique tourist attractions in their own right Then, of course, there are the fully staffed Immigration Offices at Nong Khai and Mukdahan, enabling access into Loas with the minimum of fuss and, in the case of the Nong Khai office, a full range of visa services and advice for ex-pats and visitors seeking visa extensions.

There are also two large well laid out and landscaped parks, namely Nong Prajak Park & Lake and Nong Sim within Udon proper which are fully utilized and enjoyed by the locals. This is particularly the case during the festival times of Songkran and Loy Kratong, and to a slightly lesser degree at New Years Eve and on the occasion of the birthday of His Royal Highness King. At these times the local people descend on both parks in large numbers and there is a great air of happiness & festivity and a feeling of camaraderie and mutual respect pervades everywhere. A short distance from town can be found the Na Kha Handicraft Village, and the Sunshine Orchard Farm. About a ninety minute drive away from central Udon is the famous Phu Pra Bat Historical Park and nearby, the impressive Tham Suwannakhuha Cave.

There is also, of course, the majestic Mekong River, with its view across to Loa, and the opportunity to further develop along its banks the currently meager tourist facilities of the nature of hotels, restaurants and parklands. There are three local golf courses capable of being developed further and to include tourist class facilities such as clubhouses and restaurants and even resort facilities. There are also a number of other courses within a two to three hour drive of Udon. There have been built quite recently and all within forty five minutes drive of Udon, three excellent resorts all with a range of accommodations to suit most tastes, swimming pools, full standard and a la carte restaurant services and all set within spacious beautifully landscaped gardens. Additionally there are four or five smaller resorts or guesthouses, all with swimming pools and restaurant facilities, all most reasonably priced and all conveniently situated within the city boundaries, and which cater for the family and budget tourists and are always prepared to negotiate a deal for prospective long term guests.

Nightlife and entertainment orientated towards overseas visitors and ex-pats are areas in need of considerable attention, if Udon is to be taken seriously as a tourist destination. True there several ethnic restaurants, and two or three Thai style nightclubs which can provide an interesting night out. It is interesting to note that, not so long ago, the Charoen Hotel had in the basement of its entertainment building behind the hotel, a nightclub come restaurant with a succession of very talented Pilipino bands, and which was very popular with both foreigners and non teenage Thais. Also in the same building, a cozy and intimate piano bar. This too seemed to enjoy a reasonable degree of popularity. Both were suddenly closed.

The Charoensri Grand has a very similar history. In the area now occupied by an Italian style restaurant, there existed a restaurant in which was provided both Thai and European food and, over a period of time, entertainment was provided by two very good Thai groups and singers. In the hotel basement again there was a westernized Thai nightclub with an accomplished key board player and both male and female singers, some entertaining the guests by singing popular European, Chinese and Japanese songs. There were also available well groomed pleasant mannered hostesses to lighten up the evening. Again both were closed, the first presumably because the hotel found it more profitable to lease the premises, the second for less obvious reasons. In fact I have heard the basement club has re-opened under a new format, so it may be worth a visit. There is also, perhaps surprisingly for a town of Udon’s size, a very good range and variety of Thai nightlife entertainment which, unfortunately currently makes no concessions towards attracting overseas tourists or ex-pats. I accept totally that, until recent times, this attitude was totally understandable, given the parity of overseas visitors and ex-pats. Nevertheless, ‘times are a-changing’, and perhaps the local Thai entrepreneurs need a rethink.

Incidentally, I have just recalled one small restaurant, unique of its kind in Udon, which I enjoyed visiting, in company with my wife, two or three years ago. In the event that it still exists in its original form, I am very happy to recommend to my readers that they give it a try. It is “The Western Bar” which is (or was) situated opposite to the Napoli Hotel. On the occasions of my visits, I found the food to be well presented and cooked and represented value for money. The musicians were accomplished and they played a wide variety of both Thai and Western music, and at a level which enabled the guests to converse without having to shout at each other. Also two further items of good news, at least to me but probably not to some of my addicted readers, there was no TV in evidence and the musicians, thankfully, did not subject the customers to any moronic rap or hip hop aberrations. Oh yes, perhaps it is necessary I mention that the female staff are employed strictly as waitresses and nothing else! However, the point is that there is already in existence within the current Thai night life infrastructure, the opportunity to extend and broaden its activities to embrace and integrate into their business, to their individual benefit and that of the community as a whole, the increasing number of overseas tourists descending upon Udon.

To summarize the position as regards the farang owned or farang orientated nightlife entertainment venues, my task is simple; there are none! There are only a profusion of bars which are almost impossible to tell apart as regards the variety and standard of the services on offer. So, lapsing into satirical mode, if you are a determined sort of character who is bent on having a great night out chock full of a variety of activities you could start by visiting one of the local bars. You shouldn’t have too much difficulty finding one, since at last count, there were about thirty or so of them scattered around the town. There you could order a beer and listen to some music (?) while watching and listening to TV. If you are a smoker and are sitting outside with the bar door closed, don’t worry you will have no problem hearing the music, and you will still be able to watch the TV pictures without having to worry about the dialogue, since the chances are it will be in Thai, particularly if the farang owner is absent. Should you make an early evening visit you could derive some amusement, or perhaps be saddened, by watching the girls spend an hour, or maybe two, carefully and laboriously applying their makeup while being entertained (?) by the joint efforts of Thai TV programmes, the stereo going at full blast and the girls having shouted conversations with each other. One near certainty of being an early evening drinker is that you will be served by the oldest and ugliest staff member, or even more likely the owner, as of course preparing for the evening’s fishing contest and recounting their previous night’s successes or failures are generally considered by the girls to be of far greater priority than is serving a customer.

Should you become bored, don’t worry, for a change of scenery and even more excitement you could move on to another bar. You will feel at home immediately, because it is almost certain the music, the girls and the TV programmes will be similar and be playing at the same volume, and the attitudes and conversation of the girls will be comfortingly familiar. In fact, you would probably be forgiven for wondering if perhaps you had accidentally wandered back into the first bar! The only variables, between all the bars in Udon, (and lets face it, most bars anywhere in Thailand) likely to be encountered is that some will have a pool table and some won’t; some will have both a stereo and a TV (or two) competing each with the other for your attention and some will have only one or the other (possibly through an oversight!); some will have a genial and affable owner(s) and some will be owned by someone with an oversized chip on his shoulder; some (sadly too few) will be staffed with some really fun girls and some by hardened professionals; some, again not too many, will be busy and therefore lively, because they have been adopted by a group of ex-pats happy with the personalities of the owner(s), and/or the attitude of the girls and/or reasonable and competitive drinks prices, or even any combination of the three. Some bars (unfortunately an increasing number) will be struggling to break even at best or stay open at worst, because they simply will not accept that they are totally incompetent to run any sort of business, or that they have an attitude problem which is alienating potential customers.

Fortunately, putting aside my satirical or cynical or even realistic outlook (depending on your point of view) for one moment, the positives of this unfortunate situation are that, almost without exception, all the farang owners work really hard at the thankless and in the case of some customers, the impossible task of keeping their customers happy. Also in over twelve years experience of Udon, I have known of only two farang bar owners who have set out to deliberately and consistently rip off their customers, and I am happy to report neither lasted very long and their businesses failed miserably. Sometimes there is still justice in this tired old world.

Farang orientated Bars & Restaurant bars by their very nature are extremely limited in the relaxation and entertainment facilities they are able to offer. I feel there is a very real opportunity for some farangs with experience and savvy in the entertainment /hospitality industry (and of course the finance!) to provide some alternative forms of entertainment and relaxation venues for overseas visitors and ex-pats. Other areas in Thailand now provide private members clubs; nightclubs, Karaoke Clubs, Pool & Snooker clubs; Piano and or Wine Bars and coffee shops. Many of these ideas can be integrated into each other and incorporate such additional recreational activities as golf, chess, backgammon, tennis, badminton, aerobics and gymnasiums, and even debating societies.

What in my personal opinion, and I suspect those of many of my readers, would be a major benefit arising from any such development, is that finally there would be venues to which I could go, and entertainment activities which I could share, with my wife.

Conclusion, so there it is, my personal view of the past and present Udon, the town I call home, and my dreams and hopes for its possible future. What do you, my readers, think and hope the future has in store for Udon, and how seriously do you want to be a part of that future? I look forward to reading your constructive comments on the forum.

I do not want Udon to become a major tourist center. To me that would mean an end to inexpensive living and relatively clean air and relatively mild traffic congestion. Except for a few shopping items and better TV programs in English there is really nothing much else to want around here. An influx of developement would only strain an already weak infrastructure and I'm not so sure the infrastructure could keep up with new building and added population. I like it here because it is not like Bangkok, Patong, Koh Samui, Pattaya, or Chiang Mai.

Tutone...I second the motion.....NOLA

good grief, it's going to take me two days to read all that. will a condensed version be
forthcoming for the younger members? OKAY, OKAY, OKAY, I'LL READ IT.

To me that would mean an end to inexpensive living and relatively clean air and relatively mild traffic congestion

think the air and traffic is rather poor already, though as you say, not as bad as the other locations listed. the infrastructure already can't handle whats here, please, no more. we need more water and electric already. except for lunch or early afternoon shopping, i don't venture into town much anymore, just not enjoyable unless meeting up for social once or twice. which seems to be at Glen's Sandwich Shop, due to available parking, fresher air, nice view. night market area has turned me off, it's just too congested anymore. that used to be couple times a week is barely once a month now. also includes dining on the soi of irish clock/nobi, now i get there before 4:30 pm if doing dinner, much later and parking is getting bit thin, along with the street, barely can drive down without giving way to oncoming, really needs to be one way street.

I don't think Udon will ever be a major tourist centre.
It's a market town, and I like it as it is.
There is nothing to come here for, no one attraction in the city that would be of interest to tourists.
The nearest big attraction is the old Bronze Age settlement and Museum in Ban Chaing 56kms OUTSIDE the city, LOL.


Huai Luang Reservoir
Erawan Cave
Phu Foi Park
Kamchanot
Phu Phrabat
Are attractions outside the city.

Where Udon scores is the fact it's comfortable base to see all these places, a mini van operator could, with some clever marketing, arrange trips to these places. Golf trips to surrounding courses as well.
There is a good choice of hotels, and guesthouses, with much more choice over the last ten years.

What a lot of words about nothing. I suggest if the writer is so enamoured with Chiang Mai , he moves there. The thing I like most about Udon is that it is not a tourist attraction. I am still looked on by the locals as a novelty. I don't want to be one of a crowd.I don't consider it is my responsibilty to "upgrade " the region. If thats the right word.It is an out and out Thai country town. Leave it alone. I love it.
The town council has its own plans for modernising the area for the benefit of all, not for just a few farangs. In any case the writer fails to take into account that the largest number of tourists, and therefore the biggest contributor to the local economy are from Laos.
If you are looking solely at farang retirees. From what I see most are seeking a rented property about 5,000bht. or if buying, a house ,in the region of 1mill. you don;t get all the amenities you find so desirable in that price range.Hands off Udon Thani.

There is no question in my mind that Udon has the potential to become every bit as successful as Chiang Mai as a major tourist centre.

I would hate to see it become like Chiang Mai...but it won't its not like it so its got no chance so i am not worried, i like it as it is/was, its had a few improvements over the last 8 years for the better, some might complain about this and that but i would think everyone likes it as is...a 'major' tourist destination..? , whilst there is some attractions for a minority of tourists there ain't a lot for it to be a major one...anyone can tell you that , who would come to stay for a 2 week vacation..? most come as they have some sort of contact with a place/person or just passing through to loa.

now, now, let's not get overly worried about UT becoming the next hot spot in thailand - ain't gonna happen - think about it - if you're a tourist coming to UD to see the wonderful things it has to offer, well you will be disappointed after half a day, not much here that's overwhelming fascinating, all in all it's a great place for ex pats with issan wifes to settle down, thats all.

The best thing about Udon is that it's not those other places. Oh sure, people will come if it expands and modernizes, but there will also be people that leave to find a "new" Udon 1990. I suspect it's already become too much for some. IMHO, the people in power and money will prevent it's careful expansion and moderization under a thoughtful urban planning design.
It will continue to grow willy nilly and the future expansion of Chinese business interests southward through Laos will result in a built up urban corridor between NongKhai and Udon. The Udon area will be unrecognizible in the future. Unprecedented rail and truck traffic through the Udon area will materialize and drive up property and cost of living values, while driving down the quality of life for those who value that more than money. For those expats who don't appreciate that future, I really feel that NOW is the time to seriously consider finding an alternative home location out of the path of that onslaught.

LuangLee wrote:The best thing about Udon is that it's not those other places. Oh sure, people will come if it expands and modernizes, but there will also be people that leave to find a "new" Udon 1990. I suspect it's already become too much for some. IMHO, the people in power and money will prevent it's careful expansion and moderization under a thoughtful urban planning design.
It will continue to grow willy nilly and the future expansion of Chinese business interests southward through Laos will result in a built up urban corridor between NongKhai and Udon. The Udon area will be unrecognizible in the future. Unprecedented rail and truck traffic through the Udon area will materialize and drive up property and cost of living values, while driving down the quality of life for those who value that more than money. For those expats who don't appreciate that future, I really feel that NOW is the time to seriously consider finding an alternative home location out of the path of that onslaught.

I understand your point and it is well taken but aren't expats part of that process and therefore moving somewhere else less frenetic only serves in some small way to continue that process of urban expansion, growth, modernisation, progress call it what you will elsewhere. Unfortunately, shangri la's however personal are ephemeral even if you can squeeze more time out of it by moving.

I do think it raises a question about what can be done about such unthoughtout expansion as it moves beyond the idea that it is their (Thai's) country to its my/our world your dabbling with. However, as we often see and unfortunately at times experience in this locale greed, power, ignorance and downright belligerence is often wrapped in cultural guise in this land of the twisted smile and many other places besides.

Very, very true Astana. We destroy that which we love by our mere existance there. It seems to be a common result of our existance on this earth. I for one bemoan the watering down of distinctive cultures, lifestyles, architecture etc around the world. The destruction of traditional Thai architecture makes me want to cry. It's becoming a bland, vanilla country except for some out of the way destinations. My wife understands and feels the same way but my in-laws don't have a clue. My experience is that very few Thais have an appreciation for their history as regards antiques, architecture, etc.

At the risk of revealing my age, I am old enough to remember a trip to Pattaya in the late 60's and there was only 1 actual western-style hotel and a couple of guesthouses. The water was clean and you could dive anywhere and catch warm-water lobsters and spear fish to have prepared on the beach. One of the best trips of my life. I'm sure there are some who cry when they see what Phuket and other paradises have become. It's very sad.

I'm reminded of the mountain men of the American west and how they bemoaned the coming of "civilization". It seems we've started to run out of unknown exotic places on the "other side of the mountain" to explore.

not much here that's overwhelming fascinating

except for me of course ........................tourist destination, it will never be, as pointed out, there is absolutely nothing here worth the trip. most of us are here simply because we know someone from here. how else would you find it, word of mouth. if researching retirement place, doubt if on anyone's list. we only have to worry about the uppity locals relocating here, for the same reasons we stay. not as bad as bkk or cm and other places yet, and cheap. those able and wanting to escape the tourist or big city congestion and pollution locations are sure to look at udon. has a little of everything, without the extreme problems they are leaving. so we're screwed.

I found the article by Dennis Walker fascinating, even if i did have break reading it for breakfast, then lunch, then....I don't think Udon Thani will be a major tourist centre in the near or mid term future. Only 2% of tourist make it to Issan (bbc archives) let alone Udon. It gets a rough ride in all travel books, and i've read a fair few. 'The Rough Guide' which is a bit rough if you ask me says, 'Economically important but charmless, UDON THANI looms for most travellers as a misty early-morning sprawl of grey cement seen from the window of the overnight train to Nong Khai. ... The only conceivable reason to alight here would be to satisfy a lust for archeology at the exavated Bronze Age settlement of BAN CHIANG. ... Many plenty of travellers avoid spending time in Udon by visiting Ban Chiang on a day-trip from the much preferable base of Nong Khai.'

I work at london underground and droves of my work colleagues come to Thailand. Luckily none (not even the most travelled open minded ones) have been to Issan. Bar a couple of guys, you can be glad they haven't made it! I contacted Kuoni who go all over Thailand but not Issan to perhaps have a tour there say 'the real Thailand', but they have no plans.

Udon Thani if they wanted to say rival Chiang Mai have a big uphill task. If you go to http://www.chiangmaihouse.com, there are 100's of rental properties and places to buy. Udon on FBI, a premier estate agency has four places to rent. Even added Udonmap classified and others, hardly any. And, many stay unrented for months.

I love Udon and surrounds. Four years ago my mate who has retired there seven years, took me on a 4 day tour. I saw all the sights around, the peaceful countryside, and the nightlife was to me fantastic. Live music, intimate kareoke bars, dancing girls on bars, a girl holding number 28 seems to loom in my mind for some reson too, it was great! On the plane back to Bangkok, i was really really sad leaving such a lovely place and lovely local people too.

I hope Udon and surrounding area does not become a major tourist centre. I personally like it the way it is!

It was gratifying to read the generally well considered and revealing observations upon my article, as posted on your Forum; the only notable exception being the, as usual, gratuitously rude and unnecessarily aggressive contribution from the self important ‘true brit’. Also as usual, and unlike the other Posters, it appears he either didn’t read the article properly or, perhaps more probable, the ability to understand the thrust and intent of the article was beyond him.

I say gratifying, as the postings appeared to echo my own belief that most of us ex-pats, living here long term, would very much prefer Udon Thani to remain ‘a place to live’, rather than to metamorphose into a second rate Chiang Mai or, perish the thought, Pattaya.

I also most happily agree with the majority view expressed, that such an unwelcome evolution is unlikely to occur in the foreseeable future.

As mentioned in a previous article, I believe that (fortunately?) there is simply not a sufficient demand, either from ex-pats or tourist, to justify the type of ‘night life’ developments we have seen springing up in Udon Thani, over the last twelve months or so. Just ask the dozen or so proprietors desperately seeking buyers for their ailing businesses!

I suspect the perceived trend of the last decade, whereby ex-pats married to Thai ladies are choosing the North East of Thailand in general, and Udon Thani in particular, in which to settle and make their permanent homes, will continue. It is this trend which I would like to see encouraged, and which I feel would be to the benefit of both the local Thai, and ex-pat, population and to Udon Thani generally.

Chiang Mai pollution update. It appears pollution within the Chiang Mai ‘basin’ is fast emerging as the regions major problem. Bangkok Post reported that the level of dust particles per cubic metre (a mixture of organic and inorganic substances by which pollution is measured) was found to measure 121 in Chiang Mai City;

141 in Phayao; 137 in Lamphun; 143 in Chiang Rai, and a frightening 210 in industrialized Lampang. These are frightening statistics, when considered against the internationally recognized health standard of 120 ug/cu m.

It is further reported that, in the first three weeks of last month, a total of 3,169 Chiang Mai region dwellers, (mainly children and the elderly), sought treatment for respiratory problems. I wonder how many of the latter are ex-pats of retirement age, who have settled in Chiang Mai.

It would be interesting to ascertain the pollution level here in Udon Thani. Does any member have this information?

Sincerely. Dennis Walker.